Northern Thailand

I’ve been exploring northern Thailand for the past week and I am so happy I came up here! The weather is a little cooler and less humid than the islands because it is dry season up north, everything is a little cheaper, and the people are even nicer. Here are some highlights:

Pai

I almost didn’t come here but was able to as an alternative to scuba diving (I’ll get dive certified in a few months when my ankle is up to it). Best decision I’ve made so far. Everyone I crossed paths with in the islands told me Pai would be my vibe and they were right. I really feel like I clicked with this place. When I smile and make eye contact with the people that live here it seems that they can feel my heart and there is a human connection, as if they are really seeing me. Even the police officers that were frequently pulling over tourists would smile and ask me where I’m from, barely check my bag, and send me on my way. There was something about their gaze that made me feel they were looking into my soul and appreciated it. Makes me realize how meaningful a moment can become when we give it our complete attention and accept the person before us. I gained some confidence here in myself and my ability to have a nonverbal conversation. Eyes and smiles speak volumes.

From what I’ve heard Pai has gotten a lot more popular with backpackers in the past few years so I’m sure it was even more magical before there were so many tourist accommodations, but even still, within 5 days it has grabbed my heart. I’m sure I’ll be back. Here’s what I did:

• I learned to scooter – the most liberating skill ever. It was the perfect, quiet place to learn. I was zipping around every day.
• Got to see several old friends from high school, made a lot of new friends – some that are Thai and live in Pai. The locals taught me some Karen language, which is native to the village they come from. These guys were so capable, demonstrating survival skills in what they do for fun like building bonfires every night, hunting with slingshots, and cutting bamboo into cups and stuff. Really good energy, and really good hearts. They went out of their way to help me and others get to know their experience of Thailand.
• Went out and listened to a lot of acoustic music in cozy bars (Spirit Bar, a bar behind another bar, was my favorite)
• Visited Sai Ngom hot springs
• Pam bok waterfalls and Ma Paeng waterfall/rock slide
• Went to the “Land Split.” This is a local farm that happened to be on a fault line so when several earthquakes hit (I believe starting in 2011) the land literally split open. The gap spread after several more earthquakes shook the ground in the next 4 or so years. The people who own the property are still farming on it but it also serves as a tourist attraction. They gave us free samples of roselle juice (so good!!!) and we tried roselle jam and banana chips.
• Saw the white Buddha (sweeping view of Pai)
• Sunsets at Pai Canyon and Sundown Playground
• Ate dinner at the night market almost every night. The dish pictured here is called Khao Soi and is special to north Thailand.
• Saw the bamboo bridge and rice fields.
• Stayed at Suandoi Hostel (major plug here this was honestly the coolest outdoor ambiance I’ve ever experienced at a hostel. It was so nice I spent an entire day just hanging out in the hammocks here)
• Full moon on my last night/when I left at 6:30am
• On my first full day old friends and I ate breakfast at Fat Cat, which was a cool treehouse café, and had afternoon Thai teas at a café with an amazing view and cool hanging egg shaped chair. Which is a perfect transition for what’s next…

Chiang Mai (rural)

Came back down to Chiang Mai and went straight to the Phuthi Chicken Farm where I will do a work away for the next week. I’ve wanted to meet this Thai family for several years now because some friends and my brother have worked for them before. They are so kind and I feel very at home! It’s been 2 days now, here’s my egg farm life:

• I’ve tried a lot of new local foods, all of which have great flavor – the texture is a little more difficult. Some examples are catfish, chicken feet, frog, pork blood soup, barbecued pork intestines…mystery cubes and chewy meats. With the language barrier and my unconscious bias towards more common animal products, I’ve stopped asking what some foods are to keep my mind and pallet more open. Again, the herbs and spices that are used are delicious!
• My first work day I began at 4:30am and was still drunk from taking shot after shot of whiskey with my host family. Nevertheless I tried my best to aim my buckets of chicken feed into the troughs, missed a couple of times… we took many coffee and food breaks throughout the day which helped. After feeding the chickens we swept up leaves in the yard and then burned the piles. My job was mainly to light the fires, so this was the most fun I’ve ever had doing yard work! I also learned I’m not so good at starting a fire…it was a bit of a struggle. Finally we went back to the chickens and collected eggs for the next 2 hours. I moved slowly and dropped a few, but I can say my second day collecting went a lot more smoothly! It’s surprisingly meditative and I’m coming to really enjoy picking up eggs and putting them into the egg crates.
• After working Pooh, one of the daughters, and her friend took me to a gorgeous waterfall that we walked behind and we stopped to see some elephants on the way home.

I have a week total on the farm then a few days in Chiang Mai for the New Year before I have to leave Thailand. My Thai is gradually improving, but still very basic. Using a lot of google translate on the egg farm.

Merry Christmas and happy holidays from the land of smiles!